Bolt-Action Sniper
Marker
...Price:Not for sale
Yeah, Yeah, I know what most of you are saying. "Why on earth would you want a bolt action marker!!!" And the ever popular
"You CAN'T be sniper with a paintball!!!!" Well, to answer the first question, "Because I want to!!!" and for the second commend,
"No you can't, YET" I'll go into more detail at a later date. But, for all those still interested... Or at least those interested
it how to mod markers, read on!!!
I was given an old Dragun Mech quite a while ago and was never very good at it. I kept short stroking it. And then the front
recocking system started to leak and I gave up on it. It layed in my closet for a couple of years. But then I found a need to make
a bolt action marker. And since I just got a new mill for making parts, I needed to start learning how to mill, so this seemed like
the perfect opportunity to learn.
After removing all the parts fron the marker (bolt, recocking system, etc), I milled an "L" shaped channel in the bolt chamber. This
will allow the bolt to lock for firing and to slide back to recock the marker.
Here I have drilled and tapped two holes in the bolt. I had to rotate the bolt 90 degrees since there was already a hole for the read locking pin.
The left hole will hold the screw in the re-cocking slot and the right hole
will slide in the "L" shaped channel. The holes are drilled and tapped all the way through to maxumize strength. Alumimum isn't
the strongest metal.
Since I had to rotate the bolt 90 degrees, I also have to drill a new air hole. You can see the original air hole below the new one.
Here is the re-cocking knob and the screw for the re-cocking plate. They both have 1/4" nylon spacers on them to allow a smoother
sliding. Plus having a steel screw rake along aluminum would cause problems by cutting into it.
Now the parts start coming together. Below you see the bolt inserted into the re-cocking plate. And the screw inserted into the
plate to hole it together. As you can see, the channel will allow the bolt to rotate. I was pretty proud when I figured that out.
I've inserted the bolt into the frame. The tapped hole is lined up with the "L" channel. Double checking your meaurements is
the key to getting it right.
Finally, I screw in the re-cocking know and the screw that pulls the hammer back. I lost the original screw, so I just bought a new one.
Here is a GIF of the final working system.
Next, I drill and tap the holes for the weaver rail so I can install a red dot. you have to make sure you drill the hole exactly in the
center of the marker. Otherwise you won't be able to line up the dot with where you're shooting.
And here is the weaver installed. Depening on how my other projects work, I might install a scope. We'll see.
Next I modded the feed port for our new Sniper Paintbullet. Using my mill, I milled out a larger opening that will allow the
paintbullet to drop right in.
After completing the testing the opeing for a good fit. I manufactured a special feed tube that will allow the paintbullet to
drop right in. Its simply sheet steel folded to the right shape. Then I soldered the ends together to hold it solid. Later I will
mill a couple viewing holes so I can see how many rounds I have left. and I need a tension spring to hold the bullet tight.
Then to test the fit with a couple paintbullets.
Here it is installed on the marker. Needs a coat of paint...
After finding a old cheap rifle stock on Ebay ($5.00 with shipping) and taking a wood saw to it, I have my stock. The Red Dot
is installed in this pic. I've also installed the 12g CO2 holder. I decided to go CO2 because this will be for sniping. And I
really hate remotes. After testing, we'll see how it performs...
On the reverse side of the marker, I installed an aluminum plate. It give the stock a little more support. Otherwise, I
ran the risk of breaking the wood. A little metal paint and she will be perfect.
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